FENDI SPRING 2022 R-T-W

JOIN US AS WE REVIEW THE NEW FENDI SPRING 2022 READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTION

PHOTOS FROM VOGUE MAGAZINE BY FILIPPO FIOR / GORUNWAY.COM

LET'S TAKE A LOOK

An exceptional runway displaying work's from a visionary, and a scandalous collaboration. Kim Jones has done it again, along with Silvia Venturini Fendi and Deflina Delettrez Fendi, they turned this mammoth task into a piece of art. This spring runway is the holy grail of ‘Homage' collections.

Ascending from his work in men's wear, Jones brings himself and his tailoring to the Fendi (now Fendi-Lopez) woman. This collection brought the very best out of fashion's masterminds, and synchronised genius into a flowing and exceptionally chic runway. The models swam through the air, between column and mirror, making it almost impossible to find the beginning or end of the catwalk, where the audience - socially distanced on one side - faced their own reflections on the other. The runway showcased exquisite women's tailoring, flowing wide-leg pants and strict, body-defining tuxedo vests and blazers.

The assemblage ran from white to black in perfect harmony, inspired by the works of Antonio Lopez.

Kim Jones has been in discussion with Paul and Devon Caranicas since late last year, trying to get his hands on Lopez’s legendary work. Being the archive curators, the Caranicases were, once again, keen to share their artworks. Lopez has previously featured in runways with other brands, however, these have been “artwork-printed-on-dress” style collaborations. Retrospectively, Jones utilised Lopez's work to further this collection, allowing the motifs to enhance the clothing. Assisting in guiding our eyes from supreme white, to springs classic neutrals, through to bright but muted rainbow colours, then finally to black lace that featured a never-before-seen Fendi logo, designed by Lopez himself.

The silhouettes ranged from stringent power suits to flowing, Halston-esque caftans and minidresses. The first pieces came in perfect synchronicity: a Jones-inspired tailored trouser and bralette set, paired with a Lagerfeld-style, oversized fur jacket, adorned in the line work printing of Lopez’s 'profiled woman'. From there, bolder works weaved their way into dresses and accessories, resulting in kaleidoscopic flowing silk caftans, flapper dressers, fur coats and mesh mini dresses. It featured Jones-ish dresses that perfectly swaddled the female form and were accentuated by motif-covered bags and retro-elegant earrings, reminiscent of Antonio Lopez's era.

From bouncing fur to power suits, it felt as though the models and their reflections were in fact a depiction of the everyday woman.

A woman who tries on her outfit, examines her look in the mirror, and returns 'off stage' for a final make up check. And just like that, the piece de resistance, fifty “ready” Fendi-Lopez women do their final gallery walk through the mirrored halls and out onto the streets of the world. Jones’ unique ability to work holistically among artists always results in experiential runways that set the bar for the rest of the fashion world. For fashion to remain relevant, designers must learn to collaborate, to bring out the best in each other, to create and be a curator, and to never, EVER forget the power of ones true expression.

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Editor-in-Chief,

Ethan Azzopardi